Day 10

We start by driving back to the Linn Cove Viaduct, the last piece of the Parkway finally put in place in 1987. It’s a great feature in its own right, but there’s also some very colourful foliage on the slopes of Grandfather Mountain above it, and great reflections in a small lake slightly further along.

Then we move on to the Moses Cone Estate, home to the inventor of denim. The manor house itself is charming, but is now a craft centre and you can’t even get a cup of coffee. We decide to do the walk down to his Bass Lake, which is pretty and relatively easy, but misleadingly described on the map and turns out to be a round trip of almost 5 miles. We get some great shots at the lake, but by the time we get back up the hill to the car we are both almost speechless…

Dinner is taken at a small Mexican across from our hotel, which is most impressive for the sheer industrial volume with which they are producing and serving some very tasty fresh food. We are in and out in 40 minutes, during which time three couples are served at the next table. Unfortunately our otherwise very efficient and hard-working Hispanic waiter fails to understand the highly technical concept of beer, so I fail yet again to get my preferred drink.

Day 9

We awake to something we haven’t seen so far this trip – rain. Fortunately I’m a great believer that bad weather makes good photographs, so hopefully we’ll still enjoy the day. We get back on the Parkway and head north. Some of the views are almost invisible behind the rain and cloud, but others are very dramatic with rising mist. We seem to have found an area where the Autumn colour is better advanced, which also makes a positive difference.

At lunchtime we hike down from the road to the Crabtree Falls, one of the most dramatic waterfalls in this part of the world, and still photo-worthy even at this time of the year. The infrared camera renders the somewhat moody scene beautifully. On the way back the rain starts again and I get a lot of complaints…

Late lunch / early dinner makes up for this. We each have a “Philly” sandwich served with a baked sweet potato with cinnamon. Absolutely sublime.

We motor quickly through some very interesting looking scenery on our way to the overnight stop at Boone (named for the famous trapper), but we have a whole day in the area tomorrow so things look promising.

Day 8

North Carolina. Lattes! Sparkling mineral water!! Vegetables!!!

We drive through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and join the Blue Ridge Parkway. This was one of FDR’s great public works initiatives in the 1930s. Running along the ridge of the Smoky Mountains all the way to Shenandoah National Park near Washington, it’s essentially a long thin National Park in all but name. There are no commercial vehicles, it has a gentle speed limit and frequent viewpoints and there’s little development or human activity visible most of the way. Some of the views from the high points are stunning.

A couple of hours gentle driving and snapping brings us into Asheville, home of the Biltmore Estate. George Vanderbilt, the third grandson of the great rail and shipping magnate, inherited $10M in the 1880s, and decided to spend it on a great mansion in the Carolinas. The result is effectively French chateau on the outside, English stately home on the inside, and 8,000 acres of farmland and forest which have allowed his descendants to keep it running as a self-sufficient entity, first as a working farm and now as a tourist destination.

Lunch is taken in the stable courtyard with nothing fried or battered in sight. We spend a very happy afternoon first doing the guided tour of the house, and then having an excellent meal with the first recognisable vegetables for a week!

Nice clean, modern hotel, but with about a 2 degree slope on the floor. Very odd.

Day 7

A slightly frustrating day. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited of the American parks, but in some ways it feels like the least loved. We are shocked by fresh graffiti in what may well still be consecrated chapels, and some very poor traffic management decisions result in miles of backed-up traffic around the Cades Cove loop road for no good cause.

On our way out the next day we see a young woman openly sprawling her name on a rock at a viewpoint. Astonishing.

Maybe because the park lacks a natural centre it’s more difficult to create a real park culture, but the Parks Service could help themselves by charging for access, which would help create some sense of value, and by providing better explanatory information at the points of interest.

Food follows a similar pattern to yesterday. Frances observes that the Tennesseeans seem to have endless ingenuity in increasing the calorific value of food, while minimising its nutritional content.

We have a quiet end to the day, with an hour by the pool, followed by dinner, coffee and a moonshine tasting! However it’s interesting to observe that the roads through Gatlinburg are now completely gridlocked with traffic leaving the park and arriving in the town. One of the shop owners cheerfully explains that they seem to have pulled off a unique trick, thanks to their climate, and the summer season doesn’t really end until after Christmas. If anything October is their busiest month. This contrasts sharply with Britain, where Christmas begins in September, or the typical ski town which shuts down between the last walkers leaving and the snow arriving.

One thing which is charming is the way every shop and common area in Gatlinburg is beautifully decorated with a “fall” display of corn dollies, pumpkins and wreaths of corn and leaves. Frances is so inspired we purchase our own corn dolly and wreath to try and create the look at Coppertrees.

The trick to Gatlinburg is wandering right through to the back of each alley. This process locates the best food and a great coffee shop which serves cream cakes and a proper latte.

Tenessee has proved a very friendly place. The streets of Gatlinburg may be full of bikers and rednecks, but with everyone eating ice cream and making an effort to be friendly it works.

Day 5

After last night’s “oh bugger” moment we establish that the “right” Lynchburg is only about 60 miles south of Nashville and therefore a manageable diversion. The drive down is very pleasant, and the tour interesting, although our guide has a very thick accent and also assumes we understand the basics of the whiskey-making process, either of which might be a challenge for other attendees. The most impressive aspect is the sheer industrial scale of production tucked into a tiny site in Tennessee.

Through the remainder of the day Tennessee proves itself a bit odd. First although Moore County houses one of the world’s most famous distilleries, they never quite got around to repealing Prohibition, so you can’t actually buy a drink. Our long drive over to the mountains goes quite smoothly, except halfway across there’s a change of time zone, and we lose an hour mid-state.

The gateway area for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park doesn’t resemble any other park gateway we’ve seen. Pigeon Forge at the bottom of the hill is like a mini Las Vegas. Frances is in shock at the concept of “The Hatfields and McCoys Dinner Experience – What All the Fuss Was About”. Bad taste or what? Gatlinburg at the top of the hill is marginally less tacky, but still more like Blackpool than Moab. The difference is probably that this is one of the Eastern USA’s main ski areas, but it’s not Cortina D’Ampezzo either!

Dinner holds another surprise, when the waiter refuses to serve me a beer without my passport. There wasn’t evidence of much ID checking in Beale Street Memphis or the Nashville Broadway. Explaining to him that I was old enough to drink beer before he was born doesn’t work. Fortunately Frances does have her passport and buys the beer for me, but he makes a big thing of checking the passport’s “expiration date”. Now it may be just me, but I fail to see the logic here. If Frances was old enough to drink beer when an ID was valid, she will presumably still be old enough if it has expired, that’s how time tends to work. I suppose there’s a small risk she is a Time Lord who has regenerated as a youngster like Matt Smith, but that’s a bit of an edge case…

The mountains beckon.

Day 6

A great night’s sleep, with the gentle rush of the river a soothing influence. We forgo the free breakfast at the hotel in favour of a much nicer one at Shoneys. We end up sharing a steak, eggs, bacon, sausage and toast, which seems to be the most reliable protein-centric option.

Then we’re off into the park. Fears of overwhelming traffic rapidly prove unfounded, and other users are never in the way on the roads or at stops. In addition everyone is very friendly and welcoming.

On a less positive note the park itself is a bit underwhelming essentially just a nice large green space with a high road through the middle, and nothing to compare with the genuine wonders of the more famous parks of the American West. We are a few weeks early for true Autumn colour and I might be making a different statement seeing the colour at its height.

Lunch is taken on the North side of the park, at Cherokee which is almost exactly what we expected Gatlinburg to be, a small quiet park gateway town. I have trout from the river, Frances has steak again.

In the afternoon we do a loop which purports to be a nature trail, but serves much better as a route between old dwellings near Gatlinburg. It’s lovely to see all the old homesteads, but sobering to think what a tough life they represent.

Then into town where we find a nice “back alley” bar with excellent sandwiches, nice beer (and no nonsense about ID) and yet more live music, this time a couple singing country classics. I have a pork sandwich with crisps which have been freshly re-fried. Gorgeous, but God knows what their calorific content is. Frances has steak, again. There’s no problem getting something to eat in Tennessee, but you do run the risk of too much of a good thing, and not enough variety overall.

The infrared-converted Panasonic GF3 comes into its own photographing the “smoky” mist which give the mountains their name, rendering it by default as a dramatic “sunset” picture, as above. This is probably my favourite version, but it also works well with the red and blue channels swapped to create a deep blue sky, or as a high contrast black and white version.