Author Archives: Andrew

From Nobgang to Bumthang…

Yak at the top of the Pelela Pass
Camera: Panasonic DMC-GX8 | Date: 20-11-2015 10:57 | Resolution: 3575 x 3575 | ISO: 400 | Exp. bias: -33/100 EV | Exp. Time: 1/640s | Aperture: 8.0 | Focal Length: 300.0mm | Lens: LUMIX G VARIO 100-300/F4.0-5.6

Via Nobding (with more phalluses) – I couldn’t make this up if I tried!

Today was essentially a very long and somewhat boring drive, to the “alpine” bit of Bhutan. Although start and end are probably only 50km apart as the crow flies, the road takes 200km as it hugs the sides of the very steep valleys, and crosses 3 passes all well over 3000m. On a normal day, the bus trip takes at least 10 hours (an average of about 20kph, including stops).

However, to make things significantly worse the Bhutanese have initiated a completely crazy programme of road improvement, which really isn’t working and slows everything down even further. At least 70% of the route is currently "undergoing widening", but rather than having a few moderate to large teams focusing on specific sections, they seem to have decided to try and do it all at once, with a large number of small teams going almost the same work concurrently. What this means in practice is that for much of the whole route they have just finished drilling/dynamiting/digging the bank for the widened route, but you now have a route which is regularly almost blocked by heaps of stone either waiting to be taken away, or being assembled for the next stage, reinforcing the banks. Also the original surface is now either broken up, or covered in rock and mud. There’s a lot of big machinery busy doing the digging and moving the rock and soil around, but very little evidence of anything at any other stage. I estimate the average speed has dropped to 15 kph for a bus, or rather less than 10 mph, and it’s all very uncomfortable with a very uneven surface and large amounts of dust throughout the journey.

If it was me, I’d have a much smaller number of larger teams, with each section in a "pipeline" – a group doing digging and basic earthworks, one or more behind them doing reinforcing, bridges etc, and the last one surfacing. The road users might experience a few short stretches with perhaps bigger challenges, but offset by most of the journey being on either old, untouched road (fine, if a bit narrow), or by this point in time some on stretches of new, wide and fully surfaced road.

A "big parallel waterfall" method never, ever works in software development. It doesn’t appear to work in roadworks either.

The worst thing is that we have to do it all in reverse on Sunday.

OK. Rant over.

Great lunch, and dinner, both including recognisable and very tasty beef dishes. We’ve obviously moved into an area with cuisine more compatible with my normal diet.

The hotel in Bumthang is wonderful. It has literally just opened, and reminds me of a an official park lodge in the US (but brand new). I have a room you could kick a football in, all done in lovely wood. Even the dragons in the foyer (just to remind you you are still in Bhutan) are carved in the same wood and not painted. Very elegant. We haven’t seen Bumthang yet as we arrived in the dark, but it’s meant to be very pretty, so fingers crossed.

First thing tomorrow we have been invited to attend an assembly at the local school, which should be fascinating.

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The Monastery Institute

After a somewhat later start, we drive up a steep mountain road to Nalanda Monastery Institute, basically a training school for Buddhist monks, with several of the initiates only 6 years of age. It’s ironic that these boys are entering Continue reading

Friday, November 20, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog, Travel

Tantric Temple

After a very meagre breakfast (breakfasts are getting steadily worse while the other meals may be improving slightly), we have a short drive and then start off by walking up to a temple which nestles on a hilltop below some Continue reading

In Close

I’ve discovered that I’m tending to go to extremes with my lenses on this trip. The shot in the previous post used the 12-35mm at 12mm. This shot was taken down into the Punakha valley from above, using the 100-300mm Continue reading

Wednesday, November 18, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog, Photography, Travel

Of Temples, Portals and Knobs…

We leave Thimphu via a small mountain road which climbs rapidly our of the city towards the north-east. We are treated to great views of the Buddha, which although below the summit is brilliantly positioned and visible from all over Continue reading

The Golden Bhudda

Self explanatory, I hope! Continue reading

Tuesday, November 17, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog, Travel

Culture and Food

We’ve had another good day. We start at the National Memorial Chorten (a sort of shrine), which is very busy but I get some good shots of old ladies cleaning all the brass lamps, and then the brass lamps burning. Continue reading

To Thimpu

6am: I’ve just woken up and we have to repack and get out early, and there are no lights, so while I can see to type (and the Wifi is working, oddly), I can’t see a bloody thing otherwise. This Continue reading

Sunday, November 15, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog, Travel

Long Drive, but Worth It

On Saturday we do a long loop drive via the Chelela Pass, which links the Paro Valley to the one which borders Tibet, and then back round the end of the valley. The pass is at 13,000 feet, and the Continue reading

The Rinpung Zhong

While I rather liked the detail shot from yesterday, I realised that I should really post something showing the grand buildings, so here is a view of the Rinpung Zhong from the nearby river. The interesting thing is that the Continue reading

Saturday, November 14, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog, Travel

Getting Shooting

After all the travelling, it was good to get our teeth into a solid day of photography. The day starts with a pre-breakfast, pre-dawn wander around the hotel. However as a result of an extremely cold bedroom my night’s sleep Continue reading

Friday, November 13, 2015 in Bhutan Travel Blog